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Tamar
Garb
The Painted Face: Portraits of Women in France, 18141914
New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 2007.
288 pp.; 140 b/w illustrations, 70 color illustrations.
Cloth: $65.00
ISBN: 9780300111187
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Painted portraiture is the pesky hanger-on
of modernism. It lingers long after last call, refusing to go even
as the chairs are put up on the tables. It's inconveniently pegged
to retrograde notions of physical likeness, demanding imitation as
well as (some would say instead of) intellectual and aesthetic judgment.
The sitter, whether or not a paying customer, is likely to expect
some role in the creation of the work of art in question, thus encroaching
on artistic autonomy. And it never seems to take photography's hint
that the day of the painted likeness is over and done. |
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As it turns
out, though, the genre of portraiture is stubbornly central to modernist
painting. It raises particularly pointed questions, for its commissioners,
practitioners, and viewers, about individual and collective identity,
the artist's engagement with the social and the political, and the
relationship between the natural world and the strategies and materials
of representation. The persistence of portraiture in the modern era
has been the subject of a number of recent exhibitions and studies,
including the exhibition catalogues for The Mirror and the Mask:
Portraiture in the Age of Picasso (2007) and Glitter and Doom:
German Portraits from the 1920s (2006), Catherine M. Soussloff's
The Subject in Art: Portraiture and the Birth of the Modern
(2006), John Klein's Matisse Portraits (2001), and Heather
MacPherson's The Modern Portrait in Nineteenth-Century France
(2001).1 Tamar Garb's book is at once more focused and
more expansive than these accounts of portraiture and modernism: more
focused, because her acute and intensely visual analysis is essentially
based on six portraits of women, and more expansive, because her subject
is modernism itself, and its relationship to the gendering of visual
representation. |
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Garb's close attention to her six
case study portraitsby Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Edouard
Manet, Mary Cassatt, Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, and Pablo
Picassodefines the scope of her inquiry. This is not an account
of the social practice of portraiture in the nineteenth century nor
of the history of subjectivity; Garb does not discuss the motivations
of commissioners or sitters, or the uses of portraiture outside the
artist's studio or the public exhibition. Nor is this book, strictly
speaking, an account of female portraiture in nineteenth-century France.
The earliest painting under consideration, Ingres's Madame de Senonnes,
was painted in 1814, but Garb's consideration of it focuses on its
reception, beginning in the 1850s when it emerges in the public imagination
as an embodiment of the seductions of Ingres's practice, of female
portraiture, and of Woman in general. The story told here is that
of Realism and its discontents; the label "Impressionism"
makes very few appearances, and portraits by artists such as Claude
Monet or Auguste Renoir are not part of the narrative. Moreover, while
Garb's focus on the specific qualities and problems of oil painting
in the second half of the long nineteenth century pays off in her
rich evocations of paint quality and formal experimentation, it excludes
anything but glancing references to the impact of photography on portraiture,
and on modernism more generally. |
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What Garb provides is dense and rewarding
readings of particular pictures, bound together by a strong sense
of the ways in which the individual artists' encounters with the female
subject shaped larger notions of the means and ends of representation
in late nineteenth-century France. She is particularly concerned with
how the medium of oil paint is manipulated to recreate (or obliterate)
the female face, and how the artist's touch, and thus his or her presence
in the work, is made visible, both in the deployment of paint and
in compositional choices. Garb makes use of a range of phenomenological
and psychoanalytical theories to bolster her notion of touch, as well
as her account of the relationship of male and female painters to
their female sittersSigmund Freud, Julia Kristeva, Maurice Merleau-Ponty,
and André Green are among the theorists evoked. This theoretical
material is often combined with evidence drawn from nineteenth-century
material and visual culture, so that the specifics of mourning dress
or smallpox vaccination are brought together with psychoanalytic theories
of motherhood and sexual difference. |
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Garb's narrative takes the form of
six chronologically ordered chapters, each focusing on a single painting.
The essays are anchored by a prologue that proposes the analogy between
cosmetics and oil paint as a means of understanding why female portraiture
was such an important site for artistic experimentation. In the nineteenth
century, Garb argues, maquillage came to stand for both Art
and Woman: "In the female portrait, the efforts of make-up and
the work of painting came together in the manifestation of the feminine."
(12) The prologue is a neatly constructed and provocative essay that
mobilizes caricature and hair-care advertisements alongside paintings
to make its point. But it is, in some ways, make-up itself. The paint-cosmetics
analogy reappears in helpful ways throughout the essays that follow,
but it is not a consistent organizing principle; rather, it stands
for Garb's more general interest in paint handling and its relationship
to changing theories of representation. |
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The first chapter, on Ingres's Madame
de Senonnes, is both a study of the artist's portrait practice
and an account of how this 1814 painting came to stand for portraiture's
capacity to solicit masculine fantasies of female sensuality. Garb's
argument is anchored by a sustained visual analysis of the portrait
that incorporates Ingres's Raphael-worship, and his delirious images
of the master in the studio with his lover/model, as evidence of the
conflation of erotic desire and the process of painting. Madame
de Senonnes, Garb argues, was designed to facilitate male delectation
of the female sitter; as a portrait, it attends to surfaces, not to
the depiction of character or individuality (qualities that were mostly
denied to women in any case), and ends up as a celebration of oil
paint's powers of illusionism, and of seduction. "Madame de Senonnes
is a reflection of the desires of those who produce and consume her,"
she concludes; and "As such, she represents a project of externalization
of an aspect of the self disguised in the garb of the other."
(57). |
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Ingres's portrait, which stands for
the traditions of female portraiture as a whole in Garb's argument,
is thus less an image of its sitter than of its creator and its male
viewers. This erasure, Garb points out, extended to the personal history
of Madame de Senonnes herself. She was born Marie Marcoz, daughter
of a prosperous Lyonnais draper, but for most of the nineteenth century,
her bourgeois French identity was hidden behind a romantic but spurious
identification as "la belle Transtévérine,"
a working-class Roman woman rescued from poverty by her aristocratic
French lover. This mystification of Marcoz's identity, argues Garb,
transformed her into an ethnic stereotype of Italian carnality, devoid
of any specific biography and living only for love. Viewers conflated
the sensuality of Ingres's depiction of her with the sensuality of
oil paint itself, making the portrait into an allegory of masculine
artistic dominance of the feminine material of the natural world. |
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But no portrait is solely the work
of its author. By not crediting Marcoz with any agency in the creation
of her portrait, Garb herself effectively reenacts the erasure of
her identity. The denial of female agency is particularly striking
because Garb juxtaposes the portrait of Madame de Senonnes with Ingres's
contemporary portrait of Caroline Murat, queen of Naples and commissioner
of the artist's Grande Odalisquea woman whose motivations
as a sitter and patron raise important questions about gender and
the role of the viewer. |
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After examining the reception of
the Ingres portrait by critics and writers in the second half of
the nineteenth century, Garb turns to Manet's 1870 portrait of Eva
Gonzalès, an artist herself and a daughter of an haute-bourgeois
family. Garb reads Manet's portrait of Gonzalès at her easel
as another example of female portraiture functioning as a projection
of male desires. In this case, it's Manet who transforms a portrait
of a female artist into a testament to his own artistic ambitions.
Garb argues that these ambitions are registered not only in the
clear indications of the artist's painterly "touch" (which
distanced the portrait from the Ingresque licked surfaces of contemporary
society portraiture) but in the canvas on Gonzalès's easela
flower painting that has little to do with her actual oeuvre, but
everything to do with Manet's own practice of still life. The portrait,
according to Garb, fails as a convincing image of a female artist,
but succeeds as a manifesto of Realism, an aesthetic that to contemporaries
seemed antithetical to female portraiture:
Realism, with its commitment to 'truth' and 'objectivity', mobilized
the aesthetics of mimesis in the interests of veracity, but in
so doing risked opening women to unseemly scrutiny at the same
time as revealing their physical imperfections and moral vulnerability
(68).
If nineteenth-century female portraiture conventionally presented
a smooth inviting body/paint surface to the desiring eye of the
viewer, Realism's commitment to observation, objectivity, and the
unconcealed mark of the artist produced portraits that disrupted
desire. But, as Garb shows, such images of women still invited projectionat
least on the part of the portraitist himself. |
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Garb's analysis of Manet's portrait
of Gonzalès raises the same question of the sitter's agency
as her discussion of Madame de Senonnes. Indeed, in this case
the sitter was an artist herself as well as Manet's student. It seems
impossible that she did not have some role in the formulation of her
portrait. What were her stakes in the Realist project? Why did she
participate in the construction of a portrait that disempowered her
so radically? |
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Garb's next chapter, which looks at
Mary Cassatt's 1878 and c. 1889 portraits of her mother, deals more
directly with relationship between sitter and artist, and investigates
how this interaction changes when the portraitist, as well as the
sitter, is female. In Cassatt's portraits of her elderly mother, Garb
argues, the portraitist creates an image of female selfhood that is
individualized and intellectually engaged. The look trained on the
sitter is not that of male desire, but of female melancholiathe
gaze of a daughter on her fading mother/mentor. This discussion of
representation and loss is structured by Garb's use of psychoanalytic
theories about motherhood and mourning, and is convincingly supported
by the visual and biographic evidence. However, the psychoanalytic
approach, dictated by the mother/daughter relationship, limits this
kind of deep psychic engagement between sitter and portraitist to
a very specific set of circumstancesindeed Garb implies that,
in a society that denied womens' capacity for fully-realized subjectivity,
such a sympathetic and psychically rich female portrait can only be
an exceptional case. |
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The fourth chapter considers Cézanne's
portraits of his wife from the early and mid-1890s. Garb argues that
the pose of the sitter's hands, which lie idle in her lap or toy unconvincingly
with a flower, focuses the viewer's attention on the relationship
between vision and touch. Hands, according to Garb, symbolize the
tactile nature of Cézanne's painting; their appearance seems
"to place both femininity and painting on the side of touch,
dramatizing the permeability and instability of subjects and objects
and the contested capacity of paint to capture them." (142).
The very idleness of Hortense Cézanne's hands, which gently
touch each other or the flower she holds, contrasts with the purposefully
grasping hands of conventional male portraiture, signifying the dependence
of vision on sensation, and thus of the subject and the object. This
emphasis on touch has an ethical component, disturbing the conventional
polished paint surface that makes femininity into a spectacle, and
eroding the boundaries between subject and object, artist and sitter.
Garb marshals the work of Merleau-Ponty, D.H. Lawrence, and Gilles
Deleuze on the ethics of sight and touch and on Cézanne's refusal
of ocular seduction. The Cézanne chapter is the most text-based
of the essays in Garb's book, and it is sometimes difficult to discern
any productive erosion of the barriers between sitter and artist/viewer
in the unresponsive and generic features of Hortense Cézanne. |
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The next chapter, on Picasso's images
of women between 1906 and 1912, argues that Cubism further blurs the
boundaries of the female body, and of the genre of portraiture. Picasso's
Ma Jolie, a painting that only notionally portrays the artist's
lover Eva Gouel but which inserts the phrase "Ma Jolie"
onto the surface of the canvas, is the center of Garb's analysis of
the Cubist portrait. Picasso's contemporary portraits of men, she
argues, retained the minimal markers of individualized facial features
and bodily identity required by nineteenth-century portraiture, but
his portraits of women explode those conventions. The strongly visual
argument of this chapter builds on and reinforces Garb's argument
about Cézanne's attack on Realist conventions of gender. Rather
than depicting gender as natural, stable, and inherent in the individual,
Picasso creates an unstable and permeable subject, in which individuality
(and the traditional brief of portraiture) dissolves. Garb compares
this vision of the self to the prose portraits composed by Gertrude
Stein, who had sat to Picasso for her own portrait in 1906. (Garb
credits Stein, alone among the female sitters she considers in this
study, with participating in an intellectual exchange with her portraitist.)
Picasso produces in Ma Jolie a "portrait" in which
words are substituted for visual likeness; thus he engineers an escape
from the scopophilic regime of nineteenth-century female portraiture
and frees the female sitter from "the tyrannical dictates of
conventionalized depiction." (209). |
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Garb's final chapter considers Matisse's Portrait
of 1913, alongside other images of the artist's wife from the first
fifteen years of the century, as evidence of the total defeat of the
Realist mode of female portraiture. Garb makes a clever and effective
connection between the conception and exhibition of Portrait
and the national drama of the 1911 theft of the Mona Lisa.
She notes that Portrait, with its flat grey mask of a face
and its denial of bodily sensuality, puts the final nail in the coffin
of the ideal of femininity, and of art, embodied by the missing Mona
Lisa. The chapter, and the book as a whole, concludes with Picasso's
1914 Portrait of a Girl, a response to Matisse's Portrait.
Returning to the analogy between cosmetics and paint developed in
her prologue, the author reads Picasso's portrait as the ultimate
exposé of the artificiality of the female portrait; he has
eliminated the "weighty body of the Realist subject and the tactile
intensity of the artist's trace," in favor of the free play of
representation itself: "Now painting is made up on the surface"
(250). |
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If female portraits distill ideas
about Art and Woman, Matisse and Picasso expose both of those concepts
as constructions, and liberate them from the chains of the past. Female
portraiture thus emerges as a central battleground for modernist painting.
But Garb's conclusion implicitly acknowledges that this moment of
freedom, for the artist and the female subject, is short-lived. And
how free is the female sitter if she has been, in essence, obliterated
by her portrait? Perhaps the breakdown of the sitter/artist negotiation
that traditionally shaped the look of a portrait was a necessary step
for the liberation of modern subjectivity, and of the genre of portraiture
itself. But Garb's focus on the artist's touch forecloses any investigation
of the sitter's desires and motivations. Even when the sitter is a
lover or family member, rather than a patron, she is complicit in
her own picturing; indeed, it is the play between the particularity
of the pictured self and general notions of femininity that makes
these paintings so compelling, both for their creators and their viewers.
A fuller account of the sitters' stake in the portraits Garb classifies
as Realist would enrich her account of what happens when Cézanne,
Matisse, and Picasso evacuate the female subject of portraiture. |
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In her prologue, Garb clearly states that her
study is not a survey or a social history (17). But in her efforts
to place portraiture at the center of modernism, she tends to gloss
over the history, and the specificity, of the genre. The problem of
the relationship between paint handling, the picturing of the subject,
and the nature of representation is an old one, and is operative in
both male and female portraiture throughout the history of the portraitwe
can see it being played out in the work of Rembrandt, Velasquez, and
David, not to mention that of Leyster and Vigée-Lebrun. Garb
gestures in several places in the book to the particularity of the
historical and artistic situation in nineteenth-century Francethe
association between femininity and commercial culture, for instance,
figures prominently in the prologue. Further exploration of late nineteenth-century
theories of gender and subjectivity would help elucidate how the strategies
of representation deployed by the artists considered drew on, and
subverted, popular notions of female selfhoodand would enrich
an already compelling discussion of the relationship between representation
and subjectivity. |
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As a Realist myself, forever focused on the materiality
of my subject, I feel bound to comment on the physical beauty of Garb's
book. It is a sumptuous object, fully Ingresque in its profusion of
color reproductionsnot only details of the most crucial paintings,
but also color images in the margins of the text, full-page illustrations
of paintings touched on only briefly, and even repetitions of plates
that are discussed twice in two different parts of a single chapter.
The text itself suffers from a few noticeable typographical errorsone
on the first page of the prologueand from some fact-checking
problems, including a significant misdating of a signed and dated
self-portrait of Hortense Haudebourt-Lescot. These problems, however,
detract little from a book that makes an important contribution to
both the study of modernism and the history of portraiturea
genre that never seems to go away, despite the best efforts of Garb's
protagonists. |
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Amy Freund
Andrew W. Mellon Postdoctoral Fellow
Center for Advanced Study in the Visual Arts
a-freund[at]nga.gov |
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1. Paloma Alarco and Malcolm Warner, The Mirror and the Mask:
Portraiture in the Age of Picasso. Exh. cat. (New Haven and
London: Yale University Press, 2007); Sabine Rewald, Ian Buruma,
and Matthias Eberle, Glitter and Doom: German Portraits from
the 1920s. Exh. cat. (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art,
2006); Catherine M. Soussloff, The Subject in Art: Portraiture
and the Birth of the Modern (Durham and London: Duke University
Press, 2006); John Klein, Matisse Portraits (New Haven and
London: Yale University Press, 2001); Heather MacPherson, The
Modern Portrait in Nineteenth-Century France (Cambridge: Cambridge
University Press, 2001).
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© 20089 Nineteenth-Century Art Worldwide
and Amy Freund. All Rights Reserved. |
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